서지영 Ji Young Suh , 윤믿음 Mid Eum Yun , 이예슬 Ye Seul Lee , 현송화 Song Hua Xuan , 박동순 Dong Soon Park , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In recent years, parabens used as preservatives in cosmetics have become a problem of human safety. Therefore, in this study, we tried to evaluate the preservative efficacy of 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, and 1,2-pentanediol as a preservative system to replace parabens. 1,3-Butylene glycol was added to cosmetic creams at a concentration of between 5 and 25%. The preservative efficacy of 1,3-butylene glycol was determined using a M-3 challenge test, as recommended by the Personal Care Products Council (formally CTFA). The alkane diols, such as 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-pentanediol, were assessed in a similar manner. An evaluation of the preservative efficacy of 1,3-butylene glycol revealed that it was effective against all tested microbial strains at a concentration of 25%. We also investigated the efficacy of combinations of 0.3% phenoxyethanol and 0.1% ethylhexylglycerin. Finally, we tested the alkane diols, including 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-pentanediol, as an alternative to the preservative 0.3% phenoxyethanol. Both 1% 1,2-hexanediol and 1% 1,2-pentanediol demonstrated preservative efficacy. Taken together, our study demonstrated that the formulation of 25% 1,3-butylene glycol and 0.1% ethylhexylglycerin, 1% 1,2-hexanediol, and 1% 1,2-pentanediol had the best preservative efficacy of the compositions tested. Thus, this study suggests that the formulation is a possibility of substituting parabens preservatives, which has been used in cosmetics and has become a safety issue.

Key Words

skin barrier, microbiology, formulation, preservative efficacy, 1, 3-butylene glycol, alkane diols

이준 June Lee , 김기성 Ki Seong Kim , 이현기 Hyun Gy Lee , 박창호 Changho Park , 구민수 Minsu Ku , 금영삼 Young-sam Keum

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Abstract

In the present study, we have investigated whether methylated marliolide could induce NRF2 thereby exerting anti-oxidant effects. MTT assay showed that methylated marliolide did not exhibit cytotoxicity on HaCaT cells. Methylated marliolide induced a higher ARE-dependent luciferase activation in HaCaT ARE-GFP-luciferase cells, compared with resveratrol. In addition, exposure of methylated marliolide to HaCaT cells significantly induced NRF2 and transcriptionally activated HO-1 and NQO1, both of which are target genes of NRF2. Finally, methylated marliolide protected HaCaT cells against TPA-induced oxidative damages on nucleotides and lipids. Together, results shows that methylated marliolide could suppress oxidative damages through induction of NRF2 which implies that methylated marliolide might serve as a good candidate for novel cosmetic ingredient with anti-oxidant effects.

Key Words

Oxidative stress, NRF2 (NF-E2-related factor 2), ARE (antioxidant response element), methylated marliolide

이서영 Seo Young Lee , 유병성 Byeongseong Yoo , 진병석 Byung Suk Jin

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Abstract

Various characteristics of Opuntia humifusa (O. humifusa) extract solution obtained under low temperature and reduced pressure were examined and cosmetic essences using the extract solution as a humectant were prepared. The O. humifusa extract solution represented very small surface tension (25 mN/m) and contact angle (8 °), compared with other humectants such as glycerine and 1% hyaluronic acid solution. Also, the viscosity and stickiness of the extract solution were very low. The O. humifusa extract solution made it possible for a small amount of oil to be dispersed stably in water without any surfactant. Unlike other humectants, the viscosity and stickiness of cosmetic essences were reduced as the extract solution content in formulation increased. These results show that the O. humifusa extract solution obtained under low temperature and reduced pressure can be used as a natural humectant that provides moisturizing property and less sticky feeling.

Key Words

Opuntia humifusa extract solution, humectant, stickiness, cosmetic essence

진무현 Mu Hyun Jin , 이소영 So Young Lee , 여혜린 Hyerin Yeo , 김효진 Hyo Jin Kim , 장윤희 Yun Hee Chang

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Abstract

The starfish, Asterina pectinifera Muller and Troschel (Asterinidae) is an indigenous species commonly found in all coasts of Korea causes damages to shellfish farms. In order to exterminate A. pectinifera, they are dried and used as fertilizer. Although various studies have been conducted to create high added value from the retrieved A. pectinifera, their actual utilization is relatively low. Accordingly, this study aimed to find new practical uses of starfish by identifying useful ingredients for skin anti-aging. Two polyhydroxysteroids and one asterosaponin were isolated from the A. pectinifera. The structures of these compounds were identified as 5α-cholestane-3β,6α,7α,8,15α,16β,26-heptol, 5α-cholestane-3β,4β,6α,7α,8,15β,16β,26-octol, and asterosaponin P₁ on the basis of chemical and spectroscopic analysis. Among these compounds, we have found that asterosaponin P₁ increased epidermal stem cell proliferation and the expression of hyaluronan synthase-2 and hyaluronan synthase-3 gene, which are enzymes that synthesize water-binding matrix hyaluronic acids in keratinocytes. In addition, asterosaponin P₁ increased synthesis of pro-collagen type I, a major dermal collagen in fibroblasts. As a result, asterosaponin P₁ isolated from A. pectinifera could be used as a useful cosmetic ingredient that improves skin symptoms accompanying skin aging.

Key Words

A. pectinifera, anti-aging, starfish, asterosaponin P1, polyhydroxysteroid

임준우 Jun Woo Lim , 정나슬 Naseul Jung , 신성규 Sung Gyu Shin , 권혜진 Hye Jin Kwon , 정재현 Jae Hyun Jeong

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Abstract

The multi-layered and compartmented hydrogel was designed to examine the self-transforming for developing a 4D mask pack. The hydrogel consisting of two layers with different expansion ratios were fabricated to have specific curvature by self-folding assembly. In addition, the hydrogel compartmented with three different geometries was designed by varying of expansion ratios. The compartmented hydrogel with 0.03, 0. 0,03 mm^-1 of curvatures at room temperature was self-transformed with 1.33, 0, 1.33 mm^-1of curvatures at 37 ℃, enhancing the facial adhesion. Overall, this new strategy to prepare the multi-layered and compartmented hydrogel would be actively used in developing the 4D mask pack to self-transform by each facial curvature.

Key Words

hydrogel, 4D mask pack, self-folding, expansion ratio, curvature

신혁수 Hyuk Soo Shin , 김민우 Minwoo Kim , 송제리 Jerry Song , 이준석 Junseok Lee , 하윤정 Yoonjeong Ha , 전영희 Young Hee Jeon , 김지웅 Ji Woong Kim , 이윤주 Yun Ju Lee , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidant, cytoprotective and antimicrobial activities of 50% ethanol extract of Polygoni multiflori Radix (PMR) and its ethyl acetate fraction were evaluated to confirm the applicability as a functional ingredient. The activities of the major constituent of PMR were verified and 2, 3, 5, 4′-tetrahydroxystilbene 2-O-β-D-glucoside (THSG) was confirmed to be the main component of extract and fraction using HPLC-DAD, LC-EIS-MS analysis. The phenolic and THSG contents of the ethyl acetate fraction were 11.1- and 3.0-folds higher than those of the ethanol extract, respectively. As a result of the DPPH assay and that of luminol dependent chemiluminescence assay in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H2O2 system. the ethylacetate fraction was superior to the ethanol extract in free radical and ROS scavenging activities. Especially, the ethyl acetate fraction and THSG exhibited the similar scavenging activity like L-ascorbic acid in ROS scavenging activity. The ethyl acetate fraction perceived the most potent cytoprotective effect against oxidative damage of erythrocytes induced by photosensitization reaction, followed by the ethanol fraction, THSG and that of (+)-α-tocopherol, which was used as a positive control. Antimicrobial activities were evaluated by disc diffusion and broth microdilution assay against S. aureus, E. coli, P. aeruginosa and C. albicans. In particular, the antibacterial activity of the extract and fraction against S. aureus was superior to that of methyl paraben. Taken together, our results suggest that PMR could be used as a natural ingredient for antioxidant, cytoprotective and antimicrobial activities.

Key Words

antioxidant, antimicrobial, cytoprotective, Polygoni multiflori Radix, 2,3,5,4'-tetrahydroxystilbene

변진아 Jina Byun , 신성규 Sung Gyu Shin , 한사라 Sa Ra Han , 조성우 Sung Woo Cho , 임준우 Jun Woo Lim , 정재현 Jae Hyun Jeong

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Abstract

In this study, cross-linked collagen gels were successfully prepared with varying of elastic modulus from 0.7 to 17.7 kPa using a chemical cross-linker. Then, human dermal fibroblasts were encapsulated into the porous pores introduced into the gels, and cell growth and behavior were examined by gel’s mechanical properties. Specifically, increasing elastic modulus of the gel led to decreases in procollagen synthesis from 47 to 32 ng. In addition, there could be optimum elastic modulus for procollagen production, when the gels were treated with adenosine. However, interestingly, this study discovered that the procollagen production level was not influenced by the elastic modulus of the gel for functional peptide. In conclusion, these results would be highly useful for designing reconstructed skins with varying of elastic modulus to examine functional materials in cosmetics.

Key Words

collagen gel, glutaraldehyde, elastic modulus, functional peptide, pro-collagen

김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 조연정 Yeon Jeong Jo , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial constituents from Daucus carota var. sativa (carrot) areal parts. For the extract and solvent fractions, the anti-inflammatory activities were examined by measuring the nitric oxide (NO) production using LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Among them, the ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction decreased the NO level in a dose-dependent manner. To elucidate further anti-inflammatory mechanisms, EtOAc fraction was evaluated by estimating their effects on the production of prostaglandin E2 and pro-inflammatory cytokines as well as on the expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2). As a result, the EtOAc fraction was determined to inhibit the production of PGE2, IL-1β, IL-6 and reduce the iNOS, COX-2 protein expression. Upon the anti-bacterial tests using Staphylococcus epidermidis and Propionibacterium acnes, n-hexane (Hex) and EtOAc fractions showed the most potent activities. Three phytochemicals were isolated form the EtOAc fraction; diosmetin (1), diosmin (2), cynaroside (3). The chemical structures of the isolated compounds were elucidated based on the spectroscopic data including 1H and 13C NMR spectra, as well as comparison of the data to the literatures. Anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effects were studied for the isolates. All of the compounds (1 - 3) decreased the NO production, effectively. Also, compound 3 showed anti-bacterial activity on P. acnes. Based on these results, D. carota var. sativa extract could be potentially applicable as anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

Key Words

D. carota var. sativa, anti-inflammation, anti-bacterial activity, isolation

이지혜 Ji Hye Lee , 최강현 Kang Hyun Choi , 박영금 Young Kum Park , 김응국 Eung-gook Kim , 신은영 Eun-young Shin

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Abstract

In this study, we analyzed two components, sulforaphane and PF-3758309 to prove that the mixed composition of them has more effective antioxidant and whitening functions compared to each component. We analyzed the cellular toxicity of each component and also the mixed composition to find the safe concentration level for cell viability. From the single component treatment, we discovered that sulforaphane was safe up to 10 μM, and PF-3758309 up to 100 nM. Combination treatment of 10 μM sulforaphane and 1 nM PF-3758309 did not affect the cell viability. The LPS-stimulated NO generation was significantly reduced by the mixed composition of sulforaphane and PF-3758309. Melanogenesis by α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) was also inhibited by the mixed composition. In order to confirm the possibility as the cosmetic material, we carried out clinical studies for the mixed composition samples. Skin safety evaluation using patch test was judged to be unstimulated, skin whitening effect was increased, and melanin deposition was suppressed by treatment of mixed composition samples. These results provide us with the opportunity for applying it into the development of new functional cosmetics.

Key Words

sulforaphane, functional cosmetics, antioxidant, whitening, skin

김윤선 Yun-sun Kim , 김대현 Daehyun Kim , 김유미 Yumi Kim , 박선규 Sun-gyoo Park , 이천구 Cheon-koo Lee , 강내규 Nae-gyu Kang

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Abstract

Acetyl hexapeptide 8 (AH8) is a synthetic peptide for anti-wrinkle cosmetics ingredient. It was developed as a mimetic of botox, patternd after N -terminal end of the protein synatosomal-associated protein 25 (SNAP25), a substrate of botulinum toxin. While AH8 has good efficacy and safety profiles, the permeation through the skin is poor. Therefore, we tried to enhance the transdermal delivery of AH8 by using of hyaluonic acid (HA), a linear polysaccharide of N-acetyl glucosamine and glucuronic acid. To investigate the effect of HA on AH8 penetration, we analyzed paraffin sections of Micropig^Ⓡ skin. Fluorescence labeled AH8 was applied to micropig skin with or without HA. The absorption of AH8 was limited to the stratum corneum (SC) without HA. On the other hand, AH8 penetrated to the dermis with HA. Especially, low molecular weight HA (5 kDa) was most efficient compared to 500 kDa HA and 2000 kDa HA. Experiments using fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy revealed that lower molecular weight HA had a tendency to increase the fluidity of the SC lipids more, which means enhancing the skin penetration. Therefore, HA could be expected to enhance the anti-wrinkle effect of AH8.

Key Words

hyaluronic acid, acetyl hexapeptide 8, skin penetration, skin hydration, stratum corneum fluidity

장민열 Minyoul Chang

DOI:

Abstract

Skin elasticity has been known to be influenced by the change of dermal components such as collagen, elastic fiber, and glycosaminoglycans. However, it is unclear whether the uppermost epidermis may affect the mechanical characteristics of elasticity. In present study we tried to find the role of stratum corneum when determining the elastic property under skin bioengineering measurement with Cutometer^Ⓡ. A total of 10 healthy volunteers aged 25-40 years were investigated by the parameters reflecting the skin elasticity from face and volar forearm. Within various ranges of suction pressure, R0 (=Uf), R7 (=Ur/Uf) and R8 (=Ua) were obtained to explore the depth-associated elasticity. In addition, these parameters were re-measured after the skin was fully hydrated. As results, we found that the measurement of depth-associated elasticity was possible as using various suction pressure. And the R7 parameter was significantly lower from face than those from forearm in before hydration (p < 0.05). Also, we found that the hydration of stratum corneum could affect skin elasticity. Especially, the R7 parameter at 300 mbar suction pressure of face skin showed significantly increased values than that of before hydration (p < 0.05). Interestingly, measured data from the face before and after hydration manifested relatively higher variation than from the forearm. These results suggest that it is possible to evaluate the skin elasticity considering the changes of stratum corneum and epidermis by using various suction pressure and skin hydration.

Key Words

skin elasticity, stratum corneum, skin hydration, Cutometer^Ⓡ, suction pressure, face skin, forearm skin

정용운 Yong Un Jeong , 이환 Hwan Lee , 박하늬 Haney Park , 김경민 Kyungmin Kim , 김수영 Suyeong Kim , 박영진 Young Jin Park

DOI:

Abstract

This study was carried out to evaluate the antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity of Melissa officinalis extracts and their fractions. The total polyphenol contents of the extracts were 33.02-302.76 mg GAE/g and total flavonoid contents were 9.98-325.07 mg CE/g. In 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay, DPPH radical scavenging activity was observed in the extracts and water fractions of M. officinalis and similar to that of ascorbic acid (30 μM). In addition, the treatment of chloroform fraction significantly inhibited the production of nitric oxide (NO) in RAW 264.7 cells, indicating that they have anti-inflammatory activity. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity of 200 μg/mL of 100% ethanol reflux extract showed better inhibitory activity than arbutin treatment at statistically significant level. As a result, it is considered that M. officinalis can be used as an effective cosmetic ingredient having antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and whitening activity.

Key Words

antioxidant, anti-inflammation, tyrosinase, M. officinalis, whitening activity